ASK DR. SUSAN . . .

Why is my cat coughing?

While coughing itself is uncommon in the cat, there are many reasons why a cat may cough, (heart disease, foreign body, cancer, infection such as pneumonia or bordatella, parasites such as heartworm disease or lungworm) with the most common reason (apart from hairballs) being feline asthma (also known as bronchial asthma and allergic bronchitis).

How can I differentiate feline asthma from a hairball?
Usually your veterinarian can make this determination, but if your cat is coughing and hairballs are NOT coming up, your cat may have asthma and should be examined.

With hairballs and feline asthma, the cat assumes a crouched position with the head and neck extended (as in the photograph) and appears to be trying to get a hairball up. With asthma, the hairball doesn't come up and the signs seem to increase with the cat having more and more similar episodes.

What causes feline asthma?
It is a recurrence of inflammation of the lung's airways. According to Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP from the Pet Health Library, "excess mucus forms, then the airway walls swell with inflammation and can actually ulcerate, and finally the airway muscles go into spasm, which leads to constriction. Airway constriction leads to inability to draw a deep breath, intolerance to exercise, coughing and musical sighing sounds called wheezes, though not all these symptoms may be apparent at the same time." Asthma can be life threatening if left untreated.

Several pollutants (cigarette smoke, sprays, dusty cat litter, food allergy) have been suspected but it is difficult to point the finger at which one could be the reason for it.

How will my vet know if my cat has feline asthma?

Your vet will want to take radiographs and bloodwork (+/- analysis of tracheal fluid) to assist in making the diagnosis. Sometimes it's a clear cut diagnosis, other times it might be a little trickier. Your vet might want to start treatment for asthma and see if there is a clinical response to treatment which will aid in diagnosis.

Is there treatment for feline asthma?
Yes, not to worry there are many treatments. Because it is an immune response to some antigen, your vet may want to start your kitty on steroids which will lower the immune response and the inflammation. These are available in injectable forms as well as oral forms and you can discuss with your veterinarian both of these options.
Bronchodilators can also be used (which open up the bronchioles) and some veterinarians use these in conjunction with steroids or for acute episodes.

Portable inhalers have also been used (in cats that will tolerate the mask) and is another option to discuss with your vet.

The most important thing is if your cat has any of the signs of asthma that he/she be seen by a veterinarian right away as this disease is treatable once a diagnosis has been made and fatal if left untreated.

Heartworm disease is prevalent in all of the United States, but infection is particularly common in dogs and cats along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts where salt marsh mosquitoes are prevalent. Because this disease and the treatment for it are potentially fatal, prevention is by far the best medical approach.

How is heartworm disease transmitted?

Heartworm larvae (immature worms) are carried by mosquitoes. If a mosquito that is carrying heartworm larvae bites your dog/cat, the larvae are injected under the dog's/cat's skin where the parasite matures for approximately 3 months. The larvae then migrate through the dog's/cat's blood vessels until they get to the blood vessels of the lungs (pulmonary arteries). The larvae mature into adult worms in the pulmonary arteries. Since the pulmonary arteries lead to the heart, these worms can migrate through the arteries to the heart, causing heartworm disease.

Is heartworm disease in cats the same as it is in dogs?

There are some differences between cats and dogs when it comes to heartworm disease. Cats are more resistant to the disease than dogs and they are not infected with as many worms as dogs (usually no more than 6 worms). However, because of their relatively small body size, cats that are infected with even a few worms are said to be severely infected and these few worms can be life threatening. There are two phases of heartworm disease that are potentially fatal in the cat. In the first phase of infection, the cat's immune system mounts a response, which can either prove to be fatal or subside. Following this first phase, many cats can tolerate the presence of worms, until, after about two years, the worms begin to die. The degenerating parasites can cause pulmonary inflammation or clog a blood vessel (thromboembolism) which can also be fatal (sudden death).

The most common clinical signs in cats are similar to dogs, with intermittent coughing and labored breathing being two of the most commonly reported signs. Vomiting (not associated with eating), weight loss and inappetance, among other less common signs, have also been reported.

Is there a test for heartworm disease in cats?

Testing and therefore, diagnosis of heartworm disease in cats can be more difficult as some of the tests (antigen tests) will only be positive if a female worm is present. Other tests (antibody test) may have to be repeated in 60 days if heartworm disease is suspected. If it is suspected that your cat may have heartworm disease, your veterinarian may suggest performing both tests as well as taking x-rays and having an echocardiogram (ultrasound of the heart).

Your cat should be tested if 1) your veterinarian suspects heartworm disease based on clinical signs; 2) further monitoring if your cat has already been diagnosed with heartworm disease or 3) if you are going to start heartworm preventative.

Is there treatment for my cat if he/she has heartworm disease?

Since the worms only live about two years in cats, therapy is aimed at keeping the cat stable until the worms die on their own. If you suspect heartworm disease in your cat, you should discuss the options with your veterinarian. The adulticide therapy used in the dog is used only as a last resort in cats.

Is there preventative medicine for cats?
Yes, you can discuss the different heartworm preventatives that are available with your veterinarian to find the one that is best suited for your cat.

In the case of heartworm disease, for both dogs and cats, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

ASK DR. SUSAN . . .

How can I tell if my cat is sick?

Cats are masters of disguise. It is not uncommon for a client to bring in a very sick kitty who seemed absolutely fine yesterday. That's because cats can hide disease even from the best of us. But don't despair, there are things that you can do at home to assess the health of your cat.

1) Monitor Kitty's Eating and Drinking Habits.

Is Fluffy eating more or less than usual? Many of us have multiple cats or feed free choice so it can be difficult to tell who is eating and who isn't. Some things that you can do to make it easier is to measure how much food you put in that never-ending bowl and see how much your cat(s) are actually eating. If you have multiple cats, try observing to make sure that each one is eating (break out the treats or the canned food).

Many people think that if they're eating well that this is a sign of good health. While it's true that I'd rather see a cat eating than one that is not, sometimes a voracious appetite can be indicative of diseases such as diabetes and hyperthyroidism. If your cat seems to have a voracious appetite, make sure his/her weight correlates. If your cat is eating well but losing weight then something is wrong. If your cat is approaching the food bowl wanting to eat, but doesn't take a bite or has trouble chewing, maybe there's a problem in their oral cavity (anyone who has ever had a toothache knows what that feels like!) Many cats suffer from chronic stomatitis which is an overreaction by the immune system to the bacteria on the teeth - this condition makes it very painful to eat or groom themselves.

Cats don't drink as much as dogs and if they are getting canned food, some of their moisture comes from diet. Cats drink about 1/2 ounce per pound of body weight - less if they're eating wet food and maybe more if they're eating only dry. If you are always filling up the water bowl I would worry about diabetes, kidney disease and hyperthyroidism. If your cat isn't getting enough hydration, try the circulating water fountains to entice your cat to drink. (You can check your cat's hydration status by lifting the skin over the scapula (shoulders) and see if it stays up. If the skin doesn't immediately return to the body, your cat may be dehydrated.)

2) Monitor Kitty's Urination and Defecation.

Have you noticed more urine in the litter box, or not enough? Normal cats probably urinate between two and four times per day and the clumps should be small to moderate depending upon the size of the cat. If you're finding unusually large clumps in your litter box,your cat could be diabetic or have renal (kidney) disease. If you're finding lots of little tiny clumps (sometimes blood tinged) it could be indicative of a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, idiopathic cystitis or worse, partial blockage. If you're finding no urine, then either your cat has chosen another place to go (which can signal illness) or your cat may be blocked (which is an emergency!).

Are you finding normal stool in the litter box? Most cats defecate once or twice daily. Is the stool of normal consistency? If you're finding diarrhea then your cat may be ill. Many diseases can result in diarrhea including but not limited to parasites, inflammatory bowel disease, hyperthyroidism and diabetes mellitus. If your cat is not going frequently enough, your cat may be constipated which can be a sign of renal disease or megacolon among other diseases.

3) Monitor Kitty's Behavior.

Apart from eating, drinking, urinating and defecating, any change in behavior should be an alert that there may be a problem. In our February Issue we concentrated on problems with inappropriate urination and defecation which by themselves can be indicative of an illness. But other types of behavior changes can also indicate disease. Is your cat hiding more? Because cats are masters of disguise, they would rather hide illness from you. When it gets to the point that they can't function normally in front of you, they may retreat under the bed. This is because in the wild, if they show weakness, they may become prey. This instinct is still intact even in our domesticated cats. If your cat is hiding, something may be wrong. On the other hand, if your kitty has become more vocal or more active, that can also be a symptom of hyperthyroidism and other illnesses.

4) Inspect Kitty's Coat.

Is your kitty's coat shiny and smooth? Are there any bald spots? Is he/she itchy? Any changes in your cat's coat may indicate changes in your cat's health. Bald spots can be a sign of parasites, fungal infection or allergies. Itchiness (pruritis) can be indicative of fleas, food allergies or environmental allergies (atopy). Is your cat's coat clumpy with dandruff? This could mean your cat isn't cleaning him/herself and could point to systemic illness or a problem with a painful oral cavity.

Brushing your cat is a great way to check your cat yourself for any lumps or bumps that weren't there before. If your cat doesn't like to be brushed, then petting them everywhere is another way that you can feel if everything is in order.

5) Inspect Kitty's Eyes.

Are your cat's eyes bright and shiny and free of discharge? Squinting, discoloration, or discharge can signify many diseases from a primary ocular problem to systemic illness.

These are just a few of the ways that you can be proactive in your cat's health. Along with your veterinarian, you are an integral part in your cat's health and finding things sooner rather than later will help your kitty live a longer, healthier and happy life.

ASK DR. SUSAN

One of the most common reasons for relinquishment of cats to shelters is inappropriate urination/defecation. Many people incorrectly believe that cats are being spiteful for some reason i.e., upset that you went on vacation, or mad that you changed the food. Unfortunately, or rather, fortunately, cats do not understand nor do they act out of spite like we humans do. Cats use litterboxes because they prefer a place to bury their excrement, not because they think that's what we want. We're just lucky that it works out that we both prefer that they use the litter box. When a cat stops using the litterbox, there is a reason that makes sense TO THE CAT. So, let's stop projecting human beliefs onto our cats and try to think of it from the cat's point of view, instead of ours.

MEDICAL REASONS
For inappropriate urination: Your cat may have a urinary tract infection which makes he/she feel like they have to urinate all the time, even when there is no urine or little urine in the bladder. Often times, they feel like they can't even make it into the litterbox and you may see very small spots or drops of urine (sometimes with blood) in inappropriate places. Reasons for this could be bladder stones, bacterial tract infection or sterile cystitis (among others) Male cats might also be trying to tell you that something is occluding their urinary tract and making it difficult or (and this is an emergency!) impossible to urinate.

For inappropriate defecation: Reasons such as diarrhea or even constipation can cause them to defecate inappropriately. There are many medical reasons that could cause both diarrhea (parasites, hyperthyroidism, inflammatory bowel disease, to name a few) or constipation (renal disease, dehydration) and either of these resulting symptoms can cause a cat to defecate in inappropriate places.

The bottom line is, if your cat is inappropriately urinating or defecating, it is important to take your cat to the vet and make sure there isn't a medical reason for the new behavior.

BEHAVIORAL REASONS

Once the medical reasons have been ruled out, then you can start looking at possible behavioral reasons and see what can be rectified.

1) Number of litter boxes: Animal behaviorists recommend that you have one litterbox for each cat you have, plus one. So, if you have 3 cats you should have 4 litterboxes. If you don't have enough boxes and are having a problem with one of your cats, we recommend adding another litter box in a different location from the one that you have.

2) Cleanliness: Many cats will not use a dirty box. It is very important that you scoop at least once a day, more if you have multiple cats. If you're not using litter liners, make sure that you completely change the litter and scrub the entire box more often. Even though you've scooped, the odors can penetrate the plastic of the box, making it uninviting for kitty. If you are using litter liners, the box is fresh each time you lift up the liner, sifting the excrement out. When you get down to the last liner, you start all over with fresh litter and avoid having to scrub a messy box. If you're not keeping the box clean, it could be that kitty found a new clean place to go to the bathroom.

3) Are your boxes open or closed? While many cats will use a closed box, most prefer an "open" litter box (without the hood). If you have all closed boxes, try taking the tops off, especially if you are experiencing problems. Some cats feel too closed-in with the hooded boxes.

4) Type of litter: Most cats like the sand-like feel of clumping litter, which is also easy to scoop out for cleanliness, but be mindful that some cats would prefer litters that are unscented. Cats are extremely sensitive to any change. Perhaps you just changed your litter to a different brand? Even if you still use clay litter, remember that any change can change a cat's mind when it comes to using the bathroom!

5) Location of boxes: If all of your boxes are in one area, try moving them to different areas, particularly areas that are quiet. Something may have happened near or in the location where the boxes are that has caused the cat to stop going to that location. Maybe your litterbox is next to a boiler that turned on and scared the cat when he/she was in the box. Perhaps one of your cats is intimidating the other one when they're in the litter box or pouncing on them when they come out so they don't want to go in there anymore.

If you have multiple cats and suspect that there might be an inter-kitty war brewing, Feliway brand diffusers (similar to Glade plug-ins) might help. They emit an odor of feline pheromones similar to those that cats naturally emit when they are happy (like when they rub against your let when you're getting dinner ready!). They are undetectable to humans but are pleasant for cats. Recently collars have entered the marketplace (Nurture Calm) which may be more cost effective if you know which cat is under stress.

If all the above fails, you can talk to your veterinarian about behavioral medications, which, along with some modifications in your household, can be very beneficial to you and your kitty.

1) Let cats be cats!

Cats aren't small dogs. They're not small people either! They're cats. So we need to let them be cats. Cats like to scratch. It's part of their marking behavior and it also allows them to remove the outer sheathe of their nails. It is necessary for you to provide something for the cat to scratch on. Some cats like horizontal surfaces and others prefer vertical. You'll have to figure out which is best for your cat.

2012 is a great time to learn how to clip your cats nails, if you don't already know how to. Clipping the nails is also a great time for you to examine your cat's paws and make sure all is well. If you start when they're young, most cats don't mind this.

We all know that cats like to use a litter box which is fantastic for us because we only have one spot to clean up (and we don't have to walk them in the pouring rain!). But, just as you wouldn't use a dirty bathroom (how many times do you go from stall to stall in a public bathroom until you find a clean one) your cat doesn't want to use a dirty litter box. Scoop it out once (or twice) a day and make sure you have enough boxes -- behaviorists recommend one for each cat that you have, plus one. Sifting litter liners are a great way to keep the box fresh.

Entertainment -- in the December issue of ladew mews, we provided lots of toys that cats love - many that involve you. Interactive toys are a great way for you to spend time with your cat.

Snuggle time -- Some cats like a little snuggling from time to time - make sure to take some time with your kitty. For those that aren't lap cats, just being nearby is another way you can spend some quality time.

2) Take your cat to the veterinarian yearly for check-ups.

Cats are masters at hiding disease. They do this because in the wild they might otherwise become prey. I can't tell you how often clients come in with a very sick cat who was "just fine yesterday." The cat will pretend it's just fine for as long as he/she can. It's important to see your veterinarian once a year for check-ups just to make sure everything is status quo.

3) Keep their water fresh.

Cats are prone to bladder and kidney problems, so it's important to find a way to get them to drink more. Many cats like to drink out of the faucet. Since it's not always practical to keep it running, why not try one of the automated water fountains made for cats. Drinkwell has one that has a pretty large reservoir, but there are plenty other ones that are just as good.

4) Feed a diet that works for your cat and don't overfeed.
We're all so busy, it's easy to just plunk down a big bowl of dry food and let your cat chow down. While this can work for some cats, others tend to over-eat and really pack on the pounds. Be careful if you have one of these cats. Obesity can lead to heart disease, diabetes mellitus, joint problems and others. Feed your cat a premium diet (or one that your veterinarian recommends specific to your kitty's needs). I usually recommend feeding dry food (which is good for the teeth) along with some canned food (which helps get moisture into those cats that don't drink much water.

5) Keep your home feline friendly.
Make sure that you keep your home free of things that can cause harm. String, ribbon, rubberbands are very interesting to kitty and potentially deadly. Be careful of what type of plants and flowers that you bring into your home. One ingestion of a lilly leaf is enough to cause kidney failure. Medicines, that we commonly take, such as Tylenol, can cause death in a cat. Use common sense and when in doubt, call your vet or Ask Dr. Susan . If your pet has ingested something that you're not sure of you can also call the ASPCA Poisoin Control Hotline at 888/426-4435. (The ASPCA also has a comprehensive list of substances that are potentially harmful at www.aspca.org.

6) Help us work even harder to reach out to potential adoptive parents to increase our adoption rate and find forever homes for our wonderful cats.
Sometimes it really takes a village and we could use your help. Forwarding our emails with kittens and cats for adoption to those who may be looking to add to their family would be a huge help to us to increase our adoption rates. Remember, the more we adopt out allows us to rescue more from kill shelters. You can make a difference!

7) We will finish our spay/neuter clinic so we can reduce the overpopulation rate.
So many cats and kittens are abandoned each year or are forced to fend for themselves outside. Our spay/neuter clinic will help to keep those numbers down in an effort to find a home for every cat that comes our way. Our clinic should be up and running in the spring and will offer low cost spay/neuter to rescue groups and other shelters.

8) We will continue to care for and seek sponsorship for our special needs kitties who are more difficult to adopt because the require medical attention.
Each mewsletter that we send out will feature a kitty that needs sponsorship, you can help by sending it out to fellow cat lovers to help us with those kitties that need expensive medicine and/or ongoing treatment.

9) You can . . . Volunteer at your local shelter.
There is no replacement for the feeling that you get volunteering. Even if it is one or two hours a week, you can really make a difference. We're always looking for volunteers -- call us at 516-922-CATS. If you can't volunteer with us, call your local shelter - they'll appreciate it and you'll feel good helping.

10) We all can . . . Educate the public about the importance of spaying and neutering.
Millions of cats and kittens are euthanized each year due to lack of homes. Spaying and neutering can help reduce those numbers. In 2012 we hope to step up efforts to educate the public that spaying and neutering their cats will help achieve the goal of no cat being euthanized for lack of a home.

O CHRISTMAS TREE, O CHRISTMAS TREE . . .
We love our Christmas trees and decorations and so do our kitties so keep in mind the following potential dangers to keep your cats safe:

NO TINSEL!!
Invariably every year we hospitalize a kitty that needs surgery because they've ingested tinsel. Tinsel can cause terrible damage (even fatalities) and should never be used in a household with cats.

LIGHTS
Some cats will chew on the wires or even the lights themselves. Keep your wires tucked away safely and your lights up a little higher so they are out of reach. Keep your cat away from your tree when you're not home and monitor your kitty when you are.

WATER
Be careful if you use preservatives in the water for your tree - some cats will drink out of the bowl. Hide your tree stand well with a tree skirt.

SECURE THE TREE
A tree is very interesting to the curious cat who may try to climb it and wind up knocking it over!

ORNAMENTS
Remember to keep the breakable ones off the bottom! Nothing is more fun for a cat than batting an ornament and watching it swing. Nothing is sadder to humans than watching a favorite ornament break!

ANGEL HAIR
Do not use it as it is made of spun glass and can cause irritation just on contact.

ELECTRICAL CORDS
Use common sense and keep away from cats. Chewing on wires can cause burns or even worse it can cause pulmonary edema which may be fatal.

ORNAMENT HOOKS
These are sharp and can snag a tail or an ear.

GIFTS UNDER THE TREE
Ribbon is very enticing to cats. It you put presents under your tree early, you may want to save putting on the ribbon until the last minute. Otherwise at the very best, your gifts will have chewed ribbon and at the worst you could end up at the veterinarian's office with an intestinal blockage requiring surgery or worse.

CHESTNUTS ROASTING ON AN OPEN FIRE . . .

Be wary of some of the foods that are associated with the holidays:

Chocolate, which contains theobromine, is toxic to cats, with dark chocolate containing the most theobromine.

If you're having turkey, be careful of the bones which can be a choking hazard in cats.

LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW . . .

Some of the chemicals that we use in the wintertime can be harmful to our pets. Limit the use of rock salt outdoors if your cats go outside. The salt can irritate the foot pads. Ask your hardware store for the type that is safe around pets.

Antifreeze is TOXIC to cats. One small lick can cause kidney fialure and death. Make sure that it is nowhere in reach of your cat.

AND THE FIRE IS SO DELIGHTFUL . . .

Watch those candles! A swooshing tail can not only catch fire itself, but can cause a candle to fall over and cause a fire in your home. If you have cats, you are probably better off with battery candles (which look just as nice).

Be careful of space heaters and fireplaces. Cats are heat seekers in general -- just make sure that your kitty is far enough away from them so they don't cause any harm.

ASK DR. SUSAN

The Association of Feline Practitioners is a wonderful resource for both new and experienced cat parents. I want to share their good advice with you, along with some illustrative photos of our own to give you a better idea of how their plan could work for you and your kitties.

Getting Your Cat to the Veterinarian

Providing good health care, especially preventive health care, can allow your cats to have longer, more comfortable lives. However, this cannot happen unless they see the veterinarian for needed care. Many cats dislike going to the veterinarian, and that starts with the difficulty of getting the cat into the carrier. If we can make this step easier, the entire veterinary visit is usually less stressful.

The best carriers are inexpensive hard-sided carriers that open from the top and the front, and can also be taken apart in the middle. An easily removable top allows a cat which is fearful, anxious or in pain to stay in the bottom half othe carrier for exams. Your veterinarian can often do the exam in the bottom of a well-designed carrier. Avoid carriers that require a cat to be pulled from or dumped out for an exam. You are an important member of your cat's healthcare team. You can be instrumental in helping your cat have more relaxed veterinary visits and improved healthcare. These tips will help make veterinary visits easier for you and your cat.

Understanding your Cat's Behavior

Cats are most comfortable with the familiar, and need time to adjust to the unfamiliar. The visit to the veterinarian is often difficult because the carrier, car and the veterinary hospital are usually unfamiliar. Respect your cat's need for time to become familiar with new situations, people and places.

Stay calm. Cats can sense our anxiety or frustrations, which may cause them to become fearful or anxious

Cats do not learn from punishment or force. Give rewards to encourage positive behavior. For example, if your cat is sitting calmly in or near a carrier, give a treat. Likewise, rewards can be given to help your cat become familiar with the type of handling that may be encountered at the veterinarian (e.g., handling paws, ears and mouth). A treat is what is highly desirable to your cat, which may be in the form of food, play or affection. Be persistent and reward every time.

Helping Your Cat Become Comfortable with the Carrier

The goal is for your cat to learn to associate the carrier with positive experiences and routinely enter voluntarily.

--Make the carrier a familiar place at home by leaving it in a room where your cat spends a lot of time.

--Place familiar soft bedding inside the carrier. Bedding or clothing with your scent can make them feel more secure.

--Place treats, catnip or toys inside the carrier to encourage the cat to enter at home. Often, you will first see that treats are removed from the carrier during the night.

--It may take days or weeks before your cat starts to trust the carrier. Remain calm, patient and reward desired behaviors.

--If you still have trouble, you may need to assess the carrier itself.

Getting an unwilling Cat into the Carrier

If your cat needs to go to the veterinarian right away, and is not yet accustomed to the carrier, the following may help:

--Start by putting the carrier in a small room with few hiding places. Bring the cat into the room and close the door. Move slowly and calmly.

--Do not chase the cat to get it into the carrier. Encourage the cat with treats or toys to walk into the carrier.

--If your cat will not walk into the carrier and your carrier has an opening on top, gently cradle your cat and lower it into the carrier. Another option is to remove the top half of your carrier while getting the cat to go into the bottom half, and then calmly replace the top as pictured above.

--Use familiar bedding inside the carrier. Consider use of synthetic feline facial pheromone (Feliway) analog spray in the carrier at least 30 minutes prior to transport to help calm the cat.

Coming Home -- Keeping the Peace in a Multi-cat Household

Cats are very sensitive to smells and unfamiliar smells can result in one cat no longer recognizing another. Aggressive behavior can occur when one cat senses another as a stranger. These suggestions can help avoid problems between cats following a veterinary visit:

--Leave the returning cat in the carrier for a few minutes to see how all of your cats react.

--If all cats appear calm and peaceful, let the returning cat out of the carrier.

--If you sense tension between the cats, or if previous home-comings have resulted in conflict, keep the cat in the carrier and take it to a separate room to avoid potential injury from an upset cat. Provide food, water and litter box for a minimum of 24 hours while he/she regains the more familiar smell of home.

--If there is still stress after this time, contact your veterinarian for more advice on slower introduction or medication to help the process.

--A synthetic feline pheromone (Feliway) can help provide the sense of familiarity.

--For future visits:
Use familiar bedding or clothing with your scent as it retains the smell of home and helps with reintroduction.
Use a synthetic feline pheromone (Feliway).
Bring both cats to the veterinarian together. This can prevent future conflict as both cats will carry the scent of the clinic.

Halloween is a time which may unfortunately bring out the worst in celebrants. False superstitions are often used as excuses for mistreatment and/or abuse of neighborhood animals, especially cats, and particularly black cats. It is up to those of us who care deeply about our felines to make a special effort to look out for them on Halloween.

For safety's sake, try to observe the following:

--Keep your cats indoors.

--Make sure your indoor kitties don't slip out when trick or treaters are at the door. If you are opening your door for trick or treaters, it might be wise to keep your cat(s) in a closed room so they can't get out through the open door.

--Keep candies, especially chocolates out of reach. Even foil and plastic wrappers pose a threat to our curious kitties who could ingest them by carrying them in their mouths while batting them around the house.

--Be vigilant! If you see something, say something. Our cats depend on us!

ASK DR. SUSAN . . .
"I would like to get another cat to keep my current cat company. How should I go about this?"

In one word, slowly. The first priority is to make sure that both kitties, your current cat(s) and the new one, are up-to-date on vaccines and have a clean bill of health from your veterinarian. Once everyone has passed the health test, then you're ready for the introduction.

I usually recommend that my clients keep the new kitty separate from the current cat(s) of the house. Let the resident cat(s) sniff a towel or box that the new cat has been in and vice versa well before they see each other. Spend lots of time giving your resident cats attention, then sneak away and get to know your new kitty.

After a couple of days when your original cat(s) are getting used to the idea, you can feed your cats on either side of the door, or give a treat on either side of the door so that they start to associate the smells of each other with good things. After about a week or so, you can try a viewing. It is perfectly normal for both cats (the new and original) to hiss - that's a cat's way of saying "who the heck are you?" Imagine if someone brought home a new human to live in your house! It usually takes about a week and then most of the time, even if they don't become best friends, they learn to live with each other without too much trouble.

Temperatures that humans can handle can be deadly for cats. Humans sweat to reduce body temperature. Cats do not have this ability. As a result, their only method to reduce temperature is by rapid breathing (panting) or licking their fur in an effort to keep cool. Temperatures over cat's internal body temperature (102.2) can cause a cat to develop heatstroke, which can be deadly.

Poorly ventilated cars, restriction to concrete runs without shade, or confinement to carriers in hot weather can all be problematic for the cat. Persians, asthmatics and overweight cats are most susceptible to heatstroke. Long-haired cats with matted coats are also more susceptible, and these cats can benefit from clipping the coats down in the summer months. If your cat begins rapid breathing, panting, salivating or vomiting, these may be signs of heatstroke, and early intervention is necessary.

Mild heatstroke can be treated by wrapping the cat in cool wet towels to slowly reduce the body temperature. Do not try and rapidly reduce the temperature by immersing the cat in cold water. This will only cause blood vessels to constrict and make matters worse. If the cat seems weak or shows any of the above signs, a visit to your veterinarian is in order.

As always, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Always provide adequate ventiilation for your kitty, don't leave your cat in a parked car and always provide plenty of fresh drinking water.

Many of my clients have asked me this very question, absolutely startled when I find a flea on their indoor-only, apartment dwelling feline! My theories are one or more of the following -- contact with other pets in the building, through windows if on the first floor or one or two hitched a ride on a friend or a friend's pet!

Since a female flea lays 40 eggs per day, you can see how this could grow into an infestation in no time! Fleas are difficult to see because they are small and stay very close to the surface of the skin, under the fur. Fleas come out in the warmer months (60 to 90 degrees Farenheit) and prefer humidity (65-85%). Their life cycle consists of larva hatching from eggs, which can move into carpets, cracks in wood, in soil or other organic debris. A cocoon is produced at the end of the larval stage and adult fleas emerge from the cocoon when appropriate stimuli is present, such as temperature and humidity. Fleas can remain in cocoons for as long as 140 days. Their life cycle from egg to adult flea is approximately 3-4 weeks, and adult fleas live for about 100 days.

In some cats, fleas can cause hypersensitivity reactions (allergies). Cats that have these reactions show varying degrees of erythematous (reddish) pruritic (itchy), papulocrustous (crusty, bumpy) miliary dermatitis (skin infection). Fleas can also transmit disease, such as tapeworms and bartonella (commonly known as cat scratch fever). Severe flea infestations can also cause anemia in our cats since fleas feast on blood!

Fleas generally prefer to stay on our cats, but in a flea infestation, they will bite humans too! Some of my patient's owners have complained of bites on their ankles (because fleas can't jump that high!).

Prevention is the bet course to ward off a flea infestation. There are many different products that are offered in the marketplace. It is really best to speak with your veterinarian about which one might be right for your cat to avoid this problem. Some products, even those available at pet stores and supermarkets, can be harmful to cats. Your veterinarian can select which product might be best for your situation. Most are once a month treatments and are a lot easier to deal with than clearing up a flea infestation. In this case, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

I have a 15 year old female cat. I adopted a stray kitten. He always attacks my older cat, Tiffany. He runs around and jumps on everything and chews wicker baskets. Is there anything I can give Sheba to relax him? My older cat can't use the litter box without being attacked. So now I have to keep an eye on them. It is a lot of work and I can't deal with it anymore. I've tried everything. --Linda

Hi Linda --

Sounds like your kitten is exhibiting normal kitten behavior which consists of a lot of energy! They really like to hide and then pounce -- and unfortunately, Tiffany is drawing the short straw in that game. The best thing that you can do is provide a lot of outlets for him to use that energy, instead of on poor Tiffany!

Getting a kitten can be stressful on an older cat, so you might want to try Feliway plug-in diffusers in your house. They release cat phermones, which is relaxing to kitties. It may not decrease Sheba's energy, but it might calm things down for Tiffany.

For Sheba, you can try laser lights (they even have automatic ones that shine the laser for you) which might keep him occupied. Lots of things to climb on -- those very tall "cat trees" can be great for kittens. Interactive toys are also good - anything to keep him busy and hold his attention will help. You might want to add another litter box in the house, maybe in an area where Tiffany can have some peace, if you have the space.

The good news is that he'll probably grow out of it and calm down with time. Hang in there!

Rabies Vaccine
Whether your cat lives a pampered lifestyle indoors or goes outside where there is more risk, rabies vaccines are required by law for all cats and dogs over the age of six months in New York state.

Rabies is a fatal disease for people and animals. It is transmitted through the saliva of a rabid animal, usually by a bite or scratch. While it seems unlikely that this could ever happen, there are many stories of bats getting into homes or even raccoons. Even kitties that seem safe in apartment complexes have been known to get out or break through a screen and if confronted with a rabid animal, the consequences can be severe. In some states, euthanasia might be recommended. Even if the consequences are not quite that dire, the state could require you to quarantine your animal which can become very expensive. A lot more expensive than a rabies vaccine! If your kitty came into contact with a rabid animal and was up-to-date on rabies vaccine, you would only need a booster and to quarantine the cat at home for 10-45 days. Another reason to stay up-to-date is if your cat bites someone. If the person had to go to the doctor for antibiotics, the doctor is required to report it to the health department and the health department will then be in contact to make sure that your animal has a current a rabies vaccine. Quarantining would again be warranted and without proof of a rabies vaccination, the person in question may be advised to undergo preventative (and expensive!) shots.
Kittens are given their first rabies vaccine at 12 weeks of age and then a booster is required at one year of age. If your veterinarian uses a feline rabies vaccine, it is required every year. A 3 year vaccine (which will last for three years) can also be used. You can discuss the differences and which one is best for your cat with your veterinarian.

FVRCP
FVRCP stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calici Virus and Panleukopenia virus. This vaccine is recommended for kittens from 8 weeks old every 3-4 weeks until they are 4 months of age (or just over 4 months of age), a booster and one year and then every three years after that. FVR and Calici are viruses that cause colds in cats which can be quite severe and even affect the eyes, causing ulcers. Panleukopenia is a deadly and often fatal disease that unprotected cats can succumb to. The vaccine protects against this disease 100% so FVRCP is a core vaccine that should not be skipped!

Feline Leukemia
Feline Leukemia is a virus. This vaccine is recommended by the Association of Feline Practitioners to be given as kittens (a series of two shots). If your kitty is an indoor kitty only and you do not bring in any strays, the kitten series should be sufficient for life. If your cat goes outside then it is recommended that he/she receive the vaccine every year.

Ask Dr. Susan . . . Send your questions regarding your cat's specific or general health issues, preventative measures or behavioral concerns to:
info@theladewcatsanctuary.org

Ask The Vet
If you have a question for our veterinarian, you can email us at info@theladewcatsanctuary.org. Please put "Ask The Vet" in the subject line. Our veterinarian will post answers below in as timely a manner as is possible. Unfortunately not all questions can be answered and if your pet is ill or needs attention or you need an immediate answer, please consult your own veterinarian as soon as possible.

We currently have two cats that are 1 and a half years old and were wondering what your thoughts are on our cats acceptance of a new kitten into our home? Thanks for your time, K & G

Dear K & G:
Most cats (there are exceptions) are pretty accepting of kittens. Best thing is when you bring the kitten in, don't let the other cats see him/her for a few days. If you have a towel in the carrier that you brought the kitten home in, let your cats smell the towel, to start getting used to the idea. You can even feed your cats a treat on the other side of the door where the kitten is so they associate good things with the kitten. After several days, try a supervised short visit. Make sure you give your cats lots of attention while this is going on. It is absolutely normal for your cats to hiss at the new guy/gal -- sort of the kitty way of saying "who the heck are you?" It's important to take it slow and give your cats the time they need to adjust. Some absolutely welcome a new kitten with no problems at all, and others take a little while to adjust. In most cases, the hissing stops in about 5-7 days. Before you start, make sure your present cats are up-to-date on vaccinations and make sure you have a history on what vaccines/deworming/testing the kitten has had. You may want to discuss this with your veterinarian prior to introduction.